Kibble vs. raw pet food

Goodog owner Barbara Hodel spoke with the Sydney Morning Herald about kibble vs. raw pet food.


kibble vs. raw pet food

Sydney-based dog trainer Barbara Hodel has seen how confused new owners are by the plethora of options, all purporting to be the best.

“They get completely lost because they don’t know what to choose,” Hodel says. “I think it has gotten out of hand.

“[Business owners] are realising it’s a big market and that pet owners are willing to spend money, and lots of it.”

Continuing reading the full article on the SMH site here: Kibble vs. raw: Pet food has changed, but is there right and wrong?

Stubborn, emotional and loud teenage dogs

Goodog owner Barbara Hodel spoke with the Sydney Morning Herald about stubborn, emotional and loud teenage dogs.


The Sydney Morning Herald (SMH) contacted Barbara about the behaviour of Emily Hallam’s stubborn, emotional and loud teenage dogs Cooper.

Hallam and partner Loz Robinson adopted 14-month old boxer Cooper from RSPCA Victoria in July after instantly falling in love with his playful, friendly nature. But she jokes that he acts just like a teenager: he’s boisterous, stubborn, attention-seeking and easily distracted. And without routine, “he acts out”.

This, according to experienced dog trainer Barbara Hodel, is entirely normal, as dogs have a period of adolescence between puppyhood and adulthood.

And it’s a phase many so-called “COVID puppies” will be entering soon.

Hodel, who has a book called How to Love and Survive Your Teenage Dogsays common behaviours include barking or lunging at other people and dogs, pulling intensely on the lead, refusing to come when called, testing boundaries and digging in the yard.

“They don’t make good assessments of situations and that’s why they’re so emotional and act over the top,” she says.

“I think if people know it’s just a phase and there is a reason for it, they’re better able to manage.”

Hodel says the timing and duration of the teen phase depends on the dog breed and size, beginning as early as seven months old and reaching maturity as late as 24 months of age.

Continuing reading the full article on the SMH site here: Stubborn, emotional and loud: Welcome to the teenage dog phase

Decoding your canine summit Nov 2023

Hi Goodog clients,

If you want to your dog to live his or her best life, then reserve your spot in the Decoding Your Canine November 2023 Summit: Discover the secrets to having the perfect dog. The Masterclass Series covering training, health and well-being.

My friend Ness Jones has brought together 25+ top experts and influencers for this complimentary training series on all things dog.

Living with a dog should be fun and rewarding. But sometimes they can be challenging or their health deteriorates with age.

The top professionals on this summit help you with a range of different topics so you and your dog build a relationship that counts and a life that matters together.

It is free for the first 24 hours.

Here’s what to expect:

  • 25+ dog professionals, trainers & behaviour consultants
  • Reactivity
  • Raw Feeding
  • Wholistic Health
  • Resolving problematic behaviour
  • Breaking into Film & TV, Fear Free Handling
  • …and so much more.

And me, of course! I’ll be chatting about stroppy teenage dogs! My favourite topic and how to help them overcome the challenge of being not so polite on leash.

Reserve a spot now 👇🏽

Cheers, 
Barbara

There are two viewing options:

  • FREE: Watch the classes each day from the 2 week seminar free over a 24 hour period.  
  • $37 USD:Lifetime access to all classes for $37 USD.

Reserve a seat then pick from a number of online classes. A timetable of the series will be emailed after reservation. Only name and email address is required to register.

Barbara’s top 10 tips for your teenage dog!

Yes, teenage dogs are challenging but it does not have to all be drama. Here are Barbara’s top 10 tips for teenage dogs to keep you on track:

1 It is a phase

All living beings need to go through the teenage phase to reach maturity. Most dogs come out the other end just fine.

2 Keep it fun

Play, train and spend quality time with them.

3 It is a prime time for learning

Their brain is wired for learning – do not miss that opportunity! So, train and train and train some more.

4 Mental stimulation

Use enrichment in any form, such as a sniffari (let them sniff on walks), Kong, puzzles – positive things to keep their brain active.

5 Enough down time

It is a fine line between too much and not enough. But do not create an athlete you cannot get tired anymore.

Barbara with Shellbe

6 Let them play

Most young dogs love to play, with you, other family members and other dogs, so let them play. Consider training play.

7 Pay attention

Pay attention to trigger stacking, fear phases, startle responses and behaviour chains (if it does not get better, you are probably teaching a behaviour chain.)

8 Keep yourself relevant

50 treats a day are a great start. Also check out Kathy Sdao’s book: Plenty in life is free.

9 Keep it positive

Positive reinforcement is by far the best way of training. There are reason for these challenging behaviours so address the underlying cause.

10 It is a phase!

Good luck!

Barbara Hodel

Want to know more? Check out my book on teenage dogs.

eBook & paperback order in Australia 🇦🇺

eBook order rest of world 🌏

eBook (AUD)

Paperback order rest of world 🌏

How to love and survive your teenage dog by Barbara Hodel
How to love and survive your teenage dog by Barbara Hodel

Boxing Day Sale 2022-2023

$30 OFF selected Puppy & Teenage Courses

  • $30 OFF Puppy Preschool in Terrey Hills.
  • $30 OFF Teenage Courses in Balgowlah, Terrey Hills & Collaroy.
  • Offer ends 5th Jan, 2023 11:59PM or until sold out.

$15 OFF Recall Workshops

  • $15 OFF Recall Workshops in Terrey Hills
  • Want the perfect Recall (come when called)?
  • Offer ends 5th Jan, 2023 11:59PM or until sold out.

Goodog now with PayPal Pay in 4

Pay in 4 paypal dog training
  • Goodog now accepts payment in 4 instalments through PayPal
  • PayPal Pay in 4 has no interest or late fees.
  • The Pay in 4 agreement is between the purchaser and PayPal, not Goodog.
  • Add product to cart, select PayPal in the checkout, then the Pay in 4 button.
  • PayPal accepts Pay in 4 when the total cart cost is equal or greater than $30AUD.
  • Courses with the Pay in 4 option listed below.
  • Teenage & Puppy Courses have the option to pay the full amount over 6 weeks or up to 14 weeks or more (depending on how early you book in). See details in each section below.
  • Full PayPal info: PayPal Pay in 4
  • Email Renée with any questions: contact

Skip to Pay in 4 info on: Puppy Preschool | Teenage Course | Workshops | One-on-One | Agility

Puppy Preschool

  • Full cost: $250
  • Pay in 4: $62.50 upfront, then $62.50 fortnightly
    • select Pay total fee when booking, then select PayPal, then pick the Pay in 4 option to pay in 4 instalments with PayPal.
  • Pay in 8: split payment with Goodog and select 50% of fee
    • select Pay 50% fee when booking with Goodog ($125), then select PayPal, then pick the Pay in 4 option to pay in 4 instalments with PayPal. Return to pay a further $125 with Goodog on start date and again select Pay in 4.
      • 1st instalment $125 for Goodog: $31.25 upfront with PayPal, then $31.25 fortnightly over 6 weeks.
      • 2nd instalment $125 for Goodog: $31.25 upfront with PayPal, then $31.25 fortnightly over 6 weeks.
      • This means 2 separate Pay in 4 agreements are arranged with PayPal.
    • Essentially if you book early enough you can stretch the payment out over a longer period. For example if you make a booking 8 weeks prior to the start date you can pay $31.25 each fortnight over the next 6 weeks (4 payments). Then complete the 2nd instalment on the start date and pay $31.25 each fortnight over the next 6 weeks (4 payments).
    • You can also start a 2nd Pay in 4 if you haven’t completed the 1st.
  • Courses with this option:
    • Balgowlah: Saturdays, 1:30pm & 2:40pm
    • Seaforth Vet: Tuesdays, 6pm
    • Terrey Hills: Wednesdays, 6pm

Teenage & Rescue Dog Courses

  • Full cost: with no book $280 | eBook $280 | with paperback $290
  • Pay in 4 with no book/eBook: $70 upfront with PayPal, then $70 fortnightly
    • select Pay total fee when booking with Goodog, then select PayPal, then pick the Pay in 4 option to pay in 4 instalments with PayPal.
  • Pay in 4 with paperback: $72.50 upfront with PayPal, then $72.50 fortnightly
    • select Pay total fee when booking with Goodog, then select PayPal, then pick the Pay in 4 option to pay in 4 instalments with PayPal.
  • Pay in 8: split payment with Goodog and select 50% of fee
    • Full cost no book/ebook: $140 upon booking and then $140 on start date.
    • Full cost paperback: $145 upon booking and then $145 on start date.
    • select Pay 50% fee when booking with Goodog ($140/145), then select PayPal, then pick the Pay in 4 option to pay in 4 instalment with PayPal. Return to pay a further $140/$145 on start date with Goodog and again select Pay in 4.
      • 1st instalment $140 /$145 for Goodog: $35/$36.25 upfront with PayPal, then $35/$$36.25 fortnightly over 6 weeks.
      • 2nd instalment $140 /$145 for Goodog: $35/$36.25 upfront with PayPal, then $35/$36.25 fortnightly over 6 weeks.
      • This means 2 separate Pay in 4 agreements are arranged with PayPal.
    • Essentially if you book early enough you can stretch the payment out over a longer period i.e 14+ weeks. For example if you make a booking 8 weeks prior to the start date you can pay $35/$36.25 each fortnight over the next 6 weeks (4 payments). Then complete the 2nd instalment on the start date and pay $35/$36.25 each fortnight over the next 6 weeks (4 payments).
    • You can start a 2nd Pay in 4 if you haven’t completed the 1st.
  • Courses with this option:
    • Balgowlah: Mondays, 11:15am
    • Seaforth: Mondays, 6pm
    • Terrigal: Mondays, 6pm
    • Terrey Hills: Wednesdays, 7:10pm
    • Collaroy: Thursdays, 5:45pm

Workshops

  • Full cost: $90
  • Pay in 4: $22.50 upfront, then $22.50 fortnightly
  • Courses with this option:
    • Terrey Hills: Wednesday 5–7pm
    • Terrey Hills: Thursday 1–3pm

One-on-One

  • In-person consultation full cost: $270
    • Pay in 4: $67.50 upfront, then $67.50 fortnightly
  • Follow-up consultation full cost: $130
    • Pay in 4: $32.50 upfront, then $32.50 fortnightly
  • Online video consultation full cost: $130
    • Pay in 4: $32.50 upfront, then $32.50 fortnightly

Agility

  • Agility session: $30
    • Pay in 4: handy when booking multiple Agility sessions. Each instalment is calculated by dividing total cost by 4. The first instalment is paid upon booking date.
  • Book 10 get 11 Agility sessions: $300
    • Pay in 4: $75 upfront, then $75 fortnightly

More info: PayPal Pay in 4

Free Dog Masterclass Series – July 2022

You’re invited to this free dog masterclass series:

Decoding Your Canine

Free Dog Masterclass Series

Do you want to learn more about your best friend? Are you struggling with behavioural issues or health woes with your dog?

If so, then join me and 28+ top experts and influencers as we delve into the world of dog, what makes them tick and how we can help you overcome any dramas you are having.

Topics covered:

  • Dog separation anxiety
  • Dog behaviour
  • Dog nutrition
  • Dog training
  • Dog aggression
  • Dog fitness
  • Dog trick training

From 11th – 24th July, Decoding Your Canine: The Masterclass Series will help you discover the secrets to having the almost perfect dog by covering training, health and well-being.

My friend Ness Jones has brought together some of the world’s most knowledgeable trainers and health professionals to discuss all things dog, including training, behavioural issues, nutrition, fitness & exercise, medicine, herbal remedies, photography and more.

And you can get access to all of this by registering on this link. Once the new page opens, click the pink button.

Don’t miss out on the likes of:

Barbara with Shellbe

And me, Barbara Hodel 🇦🇺 of course!

It’s free!! But you need to save your seat (register) to get access.

Event info:

  • Cost:
    • Free: Watch the masterclasses free over a 48 hour period.  
    • $37 USD: Lifetime access to the masterclasses plus workbook is $37 USD. This will increase once the classes commence.
  • Date: 11th July – 24th July 2022. Timetable announced shortly.
  • How to attend: online

Claim your ticket to this amazing online and free dog masterclass series. Once the new page opens, click the pink button:

Cheers,

Barbara
Author of How to love and survive your teenage dog

Special Announcement: Parvovirus

Special announcement: Parvovirus
There is now a diagnosed case of parvovirus in the Palm Beach area. Parvovirus is highly contagious and potentially fatal to dogs. Goodog asks you to read the following article to prepare yourself on what to look out for and to reduce risk – Parvovirus in Dogs.

Parvovirus can stay in affected areas for up to 7 months and longer in shady and damp areas. So although this announcement occurred in November 2021, please remain on alert in 2022.

If you have any concerns contact your local vet, or take your puppy or dog to the vet immediately if there are signs of illness.

This was our notice to clients in November & December 2021:

For those currently attending a course or will join one soon, please call Barbara on 0424 740 234 and discuss your situation if:

  • You have been in the Palm Beach area with your puppy or dog.
  • You take your young puppy to off-leash areas anywhere on the Northern Beaches.
  • Your puppy or dog is not their usual self. In this case go to the vet immediately as a first action. Then, call Barbara to update her on your situation.

If you are enrolled in a course and Goodog can see that you live close to the affected area, we will contact you to assess your situation. Or, call Barbara ASAP: 0424 740 234.

Teenage dogs are the P platers of the dog world


Barbara talks to Dogs NSW about how teenage dogs are the P platers of the dog world and her book How to love and survive your teenage dog.

By Barbara Hodel September 2020 – reposted from Dogs NSW
(all rights reserved)


How to love and survive your teenage dog – and keep your sanity!

The teenage phase is a challenging time for the humans, the breeders and the dogs.

Most new dog guardians find puppy hood challenging but they are getting the support of their breeder and are hopefully attending a good puppy preschool class. There is also a lot of good information available on how to deal with the puppy stage challenges, small dog, small problems. But once the cute pup turns into an adolescent delinquent, things can start to fall apart. Humans are often surprised at the change in their puppy, almost overnight they seem to turn into unruly teenagers. 

Humans are ill prepared for the challenges of a teenage dog: The emotional response and over the top reaction to some stimuli, forgotten training, increased exercise requirements, need for more mental stimulation and ongoing socialisation. 

Dogs enter the teenage phase around 7 to 12 months and reach social maturity between 24 and 36 months. Smaller breeds and working dogs become teenagers earlier and mature earlier, too. Larger breeds and specifically gundogs, enter the teenage phase later and mature later.

This is the time when breeders might get a phone call from their clients asking for help. It is important to give sound advice as this is the time when dogs might be returned, end up in pounds and shelters or spend their days lonely in the backyard.

It does not have to be like this! We need to understand that all beings, humans and animals, need to go through the teenage phase to reach the stability of adulthood. More and more research is available on the brain function of dogs and we can assume that like in humans, parts of the brain mature at different rates. The more basic functions at the back of the brain mature first, whereas the parts in the brain responsible for controlling impulse or planning mature later. Emotional responses, especially the urgency and intensity of the emotional reaction are affected during this time. We can see this when a teenage dog gets spooked by a man in a fluoro vest or a backpack on the ground, they just keep lunging and barking and seem unable assess the situation correctly or calmly. An older dog, once they realise it is a human or an inanimate object on the floor, will just walk off and calm down.

The teenage dogs do not do it on purpose but their brain, to put it casually, is still under construction. They are having a hard time to make good and calm decisions and need our help! Think of teenage dogs as the P platers of the dog world.

These young dogs now spend more and more time at home in the backyard because they are too boisterous to walk, they pull like freight trains, do not come back when called and jump on visitors and their humans. They have forgotten their training and have selective hearing. They also have gotten into a few run-ins with other dogs at the off-leash park. They now become unemployed and will soon be self-employed, meaning they dig up the backyard, eat the pool lights and bark at anything that moves. It is downhill from there and it becomes a self-fulfilling prophecy. 

Their social skills deteriorate further and their world becomes very small. They meet the same people and dogs. Because they have stopped interacting with new people or dogs, they ‘forget’ how to deal with new situations or might get scared. Scared dogs are dogs who react inappropriately or show aggression towards unknown dogs or people. 

This pattern can be fatal! Behavioural problems are one of the main reasons for euthanasia of young dogs and surrender to shelters.

But there are positive and effective ways of dealing with dogs during their teenage phase:

Keep socialising

  • While early socialisation is important it does not stop with a puppy preschool or at 16 weeks. Teenage dogs need to be socialised on an ongoing basis. They need to meet new people and dogs, go to new places and have new and positive experiences. Socialisation is not just exposure; it is creating positive associations!

Attend a teenage dog training class

  • Attending a well-run class for teenage dogs with a force free qualified trainer helps with ongoing socialisation, provides support and guardians may realise that they are not alone. 

Find a balance between mental and physical stimulation

  • Teaching them something new on an ongoing basis, such as tricks or a brush up on obedience sills is a good start. Using part of their food for enrichment in food dispensing toys, recycle plastic bottles, pizza boxes, paper rolls etc helps, too. Or if so inclined, why not take up a dog sport: Agility, Obedience, Rally O, Nose Work, Fly Ball or Nose Work. 

Keep an open line of communication. Dogs do not speak English but they communicate with the ones who listen, or more accurately, watch. They communicate with body language. While most of us will see when our dogs get really upset, we often miss the early signs of stress and discomfort. If we see these signs they do not need to lunge or bark. The early stress signs have different names. I like to call them displacement behaviours because it describes what we see: A normal behaviour displayed out of context. The main ones are lip licking, yawning, head turns, shake offs, intent sniffing. Dogs will lick their lips when we hold a treat in front of their nose, yawn when tired, turn their head when someone enters the room, shake off when wet and sniff if there is a new smell. However, if they do any of these when another dog or stranger approaches they might be stressed. We should try to help them by increasing distance and reinforce them for looking at us or moving away calmly.

Keep it positive. A classic is the couch. The dog is on the couch. The guardian first asks the dog to get off the couch, then ‘commands’ the dog to get off and then resorts to pulling the dog off, the dog growls or even snaps. Often this is the beginning of the end for a relationship. Firstly, the dog is not on the couch because they plan on taking over the household and then the world. The dog is on the couch because it is the most comfortable place and they have not been taught to go to their bed. If the dog is not allowed on your couch teaching a ‘go to bed cue’ is the first step. It is important that all family members are enforcing the same rules. Dogs to the wrong thing because they have not been trained properly or the wrong things are reinforced. The best way to address unwanted behaviours is to teach an alternate behaviour out of context, in this case, go to bed, and then gradually bring it back to the problematic situation. 

If necessary ‘interrupt’ (call their name) – ‘redirect’ (ask for an incompatible behaviour like sit instead of jumping) – ‘reinforce’ (treat, praise, toy, interaction). This should be our go-to approach if something goes really wrong.

Reward the effort. Despite all the bravado they are showing, young dogs are insecure. We need to acknowledge the effort and reinforce all the good things instead of focusing on the bad stuff. 

Let them make choices if safe and possible. A lot of dogs are not going to the off-leash park anymore because they got into altercations with another dog. If no one was hurt, the dog is not aggressive, they just need more socialisation. Teaching a reliable recall is the first step we need to take, then we need to manage the environment. This means going to the park when it is not too busy and match our dog with suitable play mates or organise play dates. Hopefully, the guardians have attended a good puppy preschool that allowed for off leash interaction and are able to read body language and good play. Good play ebbs and flows, roles are reversed, the activities shift, there are pauses and invitations to play are frequent (play bow, eye flashing, lifted paws etc). If it gets too rough, we call the dogs back to us, asked them to sit to calm things down and start again. If a dog shows aggression seek professional help.

The good thing about teenage dogs is that this phase does not go for years. With the right information, additional socialisation, training and a good sense of humour if may only last for a few months and our teenage dog has become a well adjusted and happy friend for life. Teenage dogs are the P platers of the dog world, but not for long.

About the book: How to love and survive your teenage dog is a complete to your teenage dog.

This book will help you to understand your teenage dog better and navigate the teenage months, by covering: an understanding of the unique challenges you and your teenage dog face, why and how your relationship matters in the training process, the role of anthropomorphism and consideration of dog emotions and minds, the benefits of positive reinforcement, the importance of lifelong socialisation, how to keep your and your dog’s sanity despite some common setbacks and promoting the value of calmness. You can – and should – enjoy your teenage dog despite the difficult behaviours they show. The reward is a happy and well-adjusted friend for life!

Order online here: How to love and survive your teenage dog

Barbara Hodel is the president of the Pet Professional Guild Australia, a qualified and accredited professional dog trainer and the author of: How to love and survive your teenage dog (published in 2020). Barbara is also the owner of Goodog and head trainer.

PPGA is a chapter of the Pet Professional Guild and a science-based force free professional body for the pet care industry; including veterinary behaviourists, dog, cat, horse and bird trainers, dog groomers and walkers as well as day care centres. The PPGA offers free membership for pet dog owners.

GeekWeek a five-day virtual pet training conference will be held online from 11 to 15 November 2020.

GEEK WEEK – FOR THE LOVE OF SCIENCE!

Teenage dogs at the vet and how to help them cope!

Goodog owner Barbara Hodel addresses – Teenage dogs at the vet and how to help them cope – for Pet Insurance Australia in an excerpt from Barbara’s new book – How to love and survive your teenage dog.

By Barbara Hodel September 2020 – reposted from Pet Insurance Australia
(all rights reserved)


How To Help Your Teenage Dog And Keep Your Sanity

Teenage dogs at the vet and how you can help them cope can be challenging at the best of times and vet visits can be daunting.

Dogs enter the teenage phase around 7 to 12 months and reach social maturity between 24 and 36 months. Smaller breeds and working dogs become teenagers earlier and mature earlier, too. Larger breeds and specifically gundogs, enter the teenage phase later and mature later.

The main thing we need to understand is that teenage dogs are not ‘difficult’ on purpose. Their brains are under construction and because the front part of the brain that is responsible for controlling emotions matures last, we see them reacting in seemingly irrational ways. This brain development is also responsible for their selective hearing, ‘forgotten’ training and getting spooked by random people and things during fear phases. This is normal and has physiological reasons. Knowing the physiological reason behind these challenges should make it easier for us to be patient and understanding of the hard time our teenage dogs are going through.

Vet visits are difficult part of life for most dogs and even more so for bouncy teenage dogs. But all dogs need to go to the vet when they are sick or injured and when they need their annual check-up or vaccination. It is extremely stressful for our dog (and us) if our dog is overly scared and becomes a shivering mess at the vet. It is normal for dogs to be a little stressed or apprehensive at the vet given the strange sights, smells and sounds – but if they are petrified on arrival it is heartbreaking to watch and it can be difficult for the vet to diagnose or provide treatment.

Luckily, we can do something about this with a lot of social visits when our dogs are puppies and teenagers. We need to take our young dogs to the vet regularly and start social vet visits early to prevent them from becoming fearful in this environment. I recommend social vet visits on a weekly basis for puppies and teenage dogs.

We start with just walking into the clinic, giving our dog a few treats and leaving again. We repeat this a few times until they appear to be enjoying going in. We then ask the nurses or receptionist to give them treats. If our dog has experience with getting on objects, we can ask them to get on the scale and give them a treat for doing so. Once they are relaxed, we can start going into the treatment rooms and meet the vet.

We need to make the vet visit as pleasant as possible by being generous with our treats and choosing procedures that are less invasive. There are more-and-more vets who offer a version of ‘fear free pets’ vet visits (check for these vets in your area). Additionally, a well-run puppy class at the vet of your choice can help to create a positive association, too.

There is also a ‘phenomenon’ that works in our favour, called latent inhibition. This means if our dog has had a lot of good experiences at the vet, one bad experience will not completely ruin it. They most likely will maintain a positive attitude despite the aversive procedure. But, we also need to be aware that there is ‘one event learning’ or ‘flashbulb memories’ and that despite all our best efforts one negative experience can ruin all of our hard work in creating positive associations. These ‘one event learning’ events are extremely difficult to overcome. So if we can we should try to avoid them and teaching the ‘head-rest’ as explained below can help with that.

Handy tips for the vet

Step-on

Teaching our dogs to step onto the scales at the vet starts with a plank at home. This is the first step towards teaching them to step onto unusual things. We can use luring for this: hold a treat in front of their face and guide them onto the plank. If they are not comfortable with this, we might only ask for the front feet to begin with and then gradually ask them to put their hind feet on. The hand signal is pointing to the plank/scales, similar to go-to-mat. If they have a go-to-mat cue, putting a mat on the plank/scales to start with can help. Once they are comfortable stepping onto things, we can add a verbal cue with it, like step-on. We can also practice this on our walks by asking our dogs to step-on to different surfaces and mark and reinforce when they do. Once our dog understands the step-on cue at home and is comfortable at the vet, we can ask them to step-on to the vet scale. Keep it short in the beginning: we should lure them into stepping onto it, then allow them to step off. Then we can ask for them to stay there for a few seconds and gradually we can ask them to spend more time on the scale.

Head-rest

We teach our dog to rest their head in our hand or on a chair as a way to teach accepting touch from the vet or other health professional; it is their way of expressing consent. Throughout teaching head-rest, we must always be vigilant of our dog’s comfort, and respect that they can say ‘no’ and withdraw consent to be touched. This means they have more control over what happens to them. If they leave their head in our hand or on the chair, they are saying it is ok for the vet to proceed. If they take their head away, it means no and the vet needs to stop what they are doing. Using a chair or the hand is a personal preference, as both work the same. If using a chair, I recommend putting a towel on the chair so we can take the towel to the vet and they still understand the behaviour in a different context.

Unfortunately, sometimes there is an emergency and things need to be done before we can obtain our dog’s consent and condition the vet to be a non-scary place. There are different ways of dealing with this. If we are doing routine things like injections that are not very time-sensitive, I would stick to the training plan and just defer for a few days or a week and do a lot more training to get them ready. In an emergency situation there are medications that can help or sedation. Talk to your vet about what is appropriate to prevent a negative association between them and your dog.

To teach head-rest we use shaping, by breaking the behaviour down into small steps. The first step is look-at-hand/chair, which we mark and reinforceMark and reinforce means we either use a marker word like ‘yes’ (or clicker) to tell our dog they have done the right thing and then follow up with a treat (the reinforcer). Then we move on to approach-hand/chair (mark and reinforce), touch-hand/chair (mark and reinforce) and finally leave-chin-in-hand/chair (mark and reinforce). Once they understand that we want their head to rest in our hand or on the chair we add the verbal cue head-rest. Check our youtube channel for a step-by-step video on teaching head-rest.

Muzzle training

Dogs, contrary to humans, do not have a negative preconception with the muzzle (although they can develop one with negative experiences). For them it is just another piece of equipment if introduced carefully. It is well worth training our dog on a muzzle because, in the case of an injury, it will make a vet visit much less stressful. If our dog is injured and in pain, even the most placid dog might bite and make treatment difficult or impossible. In these cases, the vet will use a muzzle to protect themselves. If our dog is used to the muzzle then we have one less stressor. If they are not, then the muzzle will make an already-stressful situation worse.

Muzzle training requires desensitising and counter-conditioning. We start by showing them the muzzle (mark and reinforce). We bring the muzzle a bit closer, they might look at it (mark and reinforce) or sniff it (mark and reinforce). Then we put a few treats in the muzzle and let them eat the treats. Eventually they will put their nose in it (mark and reinforce) and keep it there for longer (mark and reinforce). We then bring the strap behind their head (mark and reinforce), close the strap (mark and reinforce), and gradually build up the duration of it staying on. Every step is repeated and reinforced as many times as necessary so they don’t get stressed and it is a positive experience. For more information on muzzle training check out the Muzzle Up Project.

With early and ongoing social visits to the vet, teaching them the basics such as stepping onto a scale and a head rest to accept handling from the vet, visits should become less stressful for all, the humans, dogs and the vet. Muzzle training has many advantages and should be part of every dog’s training. If done properly it can be invaluable in medial and other emergencies. Most of all keep things positive and don’t rush it.

– edited extract of How to love and survive your teenage dog – Barbara Hodel